Smash burgers are on everyone’s lips right now. But what exactly are they, and what do you gain compared with other methods? Burger expert Robin Edsmyr sorts out the terms.
You can find more about Robin on Instagram @edsmyrfoodstories, Facebook: Edsmyr Foodstories Text: Robin Edsmyr Photo: Robin Edsmyr
WHY SMASH, AND WHAT IS IT?
Smashing is one of several techniques for cooking a hamburger, and if you ask me, it is by far the best.
It is all about maximum surface and flavor, also known as crust. A properly smashed burger with the right touch also cooks from the inside and upward instead of letting the meat juices run out, so you get an incredibly juicy result as well.
With smashing, you take loosely formed balls of ground meat and press them down with real pressure on a hot cooking surface. If you put a ready-formed puck on a hot surface, there will be air bubbles and areas of the meat that do not make direct contact with the hot pan, and so they do not get the same sear across the whole surface.
The meat is often overworked, too. With the smash method you press the meat out directly on the hot surface, so the whole surface of the burger makes direct contact with the griddle and you get a maximized Maillard reaction across the entire puck, magic for flavor and texture.
THE GROUND MEAT
The ground meat, and good raw ingredients with the right fat content, is the most important component for a good smash burger. The fat content should be at least 20%, preferably 25-30%, which is higher than most ordinary ground meat you buy in the supermarket, which rarely goes above 15%.
That is because the flavor lives in the fat, and the fat in the burger also helps cook it properly and gives it that juicy texture.
A burger with lower fat content feels dry and boring and is hard to get as good as you want it. You often end up burning the meat instead of building that magical caramelized surface.
Start with beef chuck (deep beef flavor) and, if you like, add extra tallow for the easy route.
If you find a good piece of chuck roll (högrevshjärta), that can sometimes be enough on its own, since it usually has nice marbling and is streaked with fat.
Otherwise you add what you like yourself. It is a matter of testing your way to your own favorite mix. Personally I like beef chuck, ribeye and dry-aged tallow (about 50/40/10). Beef chuck, brisket and short ribs is another favorite. No seasoning in the meat; salt and possibly pepper when searing is all you need, and salt in ground meat also draws out valuable moisture and can change both flavor and texture.
But what about breadcrumbs and egg? Absolutely, when you are making pannbiff. Not burgers.
GRINDING
Make sure the meat is well chilled. I prefer to put both the grinder parts and the meat in the freezer for about 30–60 minutes before I grind, to minimize the risk of the fat melting during grinding and from your hands. Use a coarse grinding plate (6-8 mm) for the best result, and preferably grind twice. Semi-freeze the meat between grindings for the best result. You use a coarse plate so the burger turns out airy and the meat does not become compact and end up like meat mash, and you grind twice so the mix is blended properly and to minimize the risk of coarse bits of tallow that can feel rubbery.
PUCK SIZE
Size does matter!
At least when it comes to smashing.
Of course the meat-to-bun ratio is something to take into account, but a smash burger is not big.
I try to stay at about 2¾–3½ oz per “ball” depending on the diameter of the bun, and go for double patties on the burger instead of squeezing out a 200-gram one, where other methods suit better.
A proper smash burger is pressed hard, to about ½–½ in in thickness, and a 180-gram patty at ½ in thick ends up like a frisbee.
SEARING
Use a cooking surface that handles high temperatures and is completely smooth, for example a carbon steel griddle, a fine-grained cast iron griddle or an ordinary cast iron pan. I make a habit of smashing my burgers outside on the grill, since it smokes quite a bit. When the griddle or pan is really hot (I try to stay around 250–280 degrees Celsius on the cooking surface), put down the balls, which will start sizzling right away.
No extra fat in the pan, since the meat is already fatty as it is, and too much added fat can make the burger boil instead of sear. Plus you want the meat to really grab and stick to the griddle.
Use a flat object for the smashing itself: the bottom of a flat-bottomed saucepan, a sturdy spatula or a dedicated smash tool (preferably one with an edge). A tip is to put parchment paper or baking paper between the press and the burger to minimize the risk of the meat sticking to the tool. Otherwise, let the ball sizzle for a few seconds, then flip it and press on the side that has already picked up a little sear.
Press properly to the right thickness and hold with steady pressure. Hold for at least 10 seconds. This is when the majority of the crust forms and the Maillard reaction is created.
Salt and pepper it and let it cook until you see the meat juices creeping through on the top side, about 1–2 minutes. (Personally I like mustard-fried burgers, so-called “extra fine”; then drizzle on a little American yellow mustard at this stage too, before flipping.)
Then carefully scrape the patty loose with a sharp spatula or similar and flip it in the pan. You really need a sharp tool to scrape the burger loose carefully. If it does not need scraping loose, you have not fully succeeded.
Salt and pepper the other side as well.
Then add whatever toppings you like, such as cheese and onion. I usually settle for a good cheddar and build the burger with the rest of the toppings after the searing.
Then close the lid of the grill, or put another lid on top, so the cheese melts properly. With thicker slices of cheese, a tip is to spray a little water at the edge of the pan and close the lid to raise the humidity and speed up the melting.
Scrape the patties loose (single or double) and build the burger.
BUN
This is a matter of taste; everyone likes something different. Personally I think it should have a decent amount of chew, be springy, not too sweet, and hold the burger together well.
A bit like American potato rolls, but it is hard to find really good ones in Sweden. If I do not bake my own (there are many good recipes out there), I usually buy from bakeries such as Bröd & Salt, Bakery & Spice or similar.
In ordinary supermarkets I think a same-day-fresh “La Boulangère” works well. Garant’s brioche works too, even though I find it too airy and porous, without enough resistance, and it easily turns soggy.
Toast it in a pan or in the oven, preferably with a little ghee or browned butter if you prefer.
BUILDING THE BURGER
Last but not least, you assemble the burger with the toppings you want. I like to think acid/sweetness/saltiness/crunch/umami.
You get some umami for free from the caramelized surface of the meat, but I am really weak for truffle mayo. The meat is heavenly as it is, so you really need nothing but bun, meat and cheese.
After that, only your own taste buds and imagination set the limits.
Porter-caramelized pearl onions? Pickled red onion? Aged gruyère? Shake Shack-style dressing? Jalapeños? Truffle mayo? Smoked pork belly? Egg yolk? Pickled chanterelles? Smoky BBQ sauce? Grated horseradish? Try your way forward!
BELOW ARE SOME SIMPLE RECIPES FOR CLASSIC AND GOOD TOPPINGS
Truffle mayo
2 egg yolks
1 heaped teaspoon truffle Dijon mustard
½ tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Salt & a little white pepper
A little lemon juice
1 ¼–1 ⅔ cups rapeseed oil (possibly extra truffle oil)
Method:
Quickly whisk together all the ingredients except the rapeseed oil with an electric whisk. Add the oil drop by drop at first, whisking on the lowest setting with an electric whisk if you cannot be bothered to whisk by hand. When the emulsion takes off (you can see it coming together), you can increase the stream a little. Keep going at a slow pace until the mayo has the right consistency. If it gets too thick, you can add a few drops of water at the end to make it smoother. Then add a little truffle oil if you like and adjust with salt.
Porter-caramelized pearl onions
About 3 pearl onions
⅓ cup + 1½ tbsp porter beer
1–2 tbsp muscovado sugar (or brown sugar; granulated sugar works too)
A splash of vinegar
Method:
Fry the pearl onions in a pan (preferably cast iron) at medium-high heat, lowering it if needed after a while. You want the onions to pick up some color but also be able to cook for quite a long time to bring out the sugars in the onion. Add the sugar, stir around and cook a bit longer at low heat. Add the vinegar and then the beer and simmer it down.
Simple 1-2-3 pickling (red onion, jalapeños…)
⅓ cup + 1½ tbsp white spirit vinegar (12%)
¾ cup + 1½ tbsp granulated sugar
1 ¼ cups water
Method:
Heat the vinegar, sugar and water until it just starts to simmer. Take it off the heat and let it cool. Slice the red onion and put it in a glass jar with a lid. When the brine has cooled, pour it over the sliced onion, or whatever you want to pickle, and seal the jar.
Shake Shack-style dressing
½ cup + 2 tbsp mayonnaise (Hellmann’s works well if you have not made your own)
4 skivor pickles (US dill pickles are the favorite)
1 tbsp ketchup
1 tbsp American yellow mustard
¼ tsp garlic powder
¼ tsp paprika powder
A pinch of cayenne pepper
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